Kibbles & Bytes Blog

  • How To Migrate Your iPhoto Library To An External

    Recently, I purchased a massive 2TB external hard drive so that I could create a media server with my Mac mini and free up space on that machine and my MacBook Pro. Some of you may not have even considered this an option but it is a great way to save space on your computer’s primary drive. At the same time it can make your photos a little safer and a little less safe as well.

    Storing your photos on an external hard drive helps safety because typically you are not accessing your external as often as your primary drive which will increase the time before the drive fails, and before you ask, yes, every hard drive will fail at some point. It also makes them slightly less safe because Macs come standard with impact detection.

    My layman’s understanding of how this works is that the Mac will quickly lock the drive’s components in place whenever an impact is imminent. Since your average external doesn’t have this feature, you run the risk of dropping the external while it is operating and damaging its internals. However, in the long run, I think this is a much better way to store all media including photos, music, docs, and movies.

    Now onto the part you’ve been waiting for — how to do it!

    *Step 1*
    * Plug in and power up your external drive so that it mounts on your Mac. Also make sure that iPhoto is not running. If it is simply click on the icon to open it up and hit *command+Q* to quit the app.

    *Step 2*
    * Locate your iPhoto Library. This should be stored in your Pictures folder but if you can’t find that, open up a new Finder window and follow this path: *@Macintosh HD > Users > “your username” > Pictures@*

    *Step 3*
    * Move the *iPhoto Library* package to your external by using either cut and paste or by dragging the package to the external. If you are using the dragging method, I always find it much easier to have two finder windows open.

    * You might have to wait some time for this action to finish. The time it will take can greatly vary depending on the amount of data being moved, the type/speed of both drives and the interface in which they are connected (USB 2.0, FireWire, Thunderbolt, etc.)

    *Step 4*
    * Once your iPhoto Library package has been moved, you need to tell the iPhoto app where to find the pictures. To do this hold down the *alt/option* key and launch iPhoto. This will open a new dialog window asking you to select the iPhoto Library you want to use. Select the option for the library we just moved. If you see multiple options and are unsure you can see the directory path for the currently selected library. Just make sure its path is going to your external hard drive and hit *Choose* to confirm the selection.

    * If by chance you don’t see your existing library in the list simply click the *Other Library…* button and navigate to the iPhoto Library you moved to your external hard drive.

    Whenever you open iPhoto, the app will automatically pull its data from the library on your external. Keep in mind that if you don’t have the external connected, you won’t be able to access the photos within iPhoto. That seems like a simple idea but I have been caught once or twice not powering up my external and wondering where the heck all my media is when I turn on iTunes.

    If in the future you decide you want your iPhoto Library back on your Mac’s hard drive, all you have to do is follow these steps again with one exception. Make sure you drag the iPhoto Library from your external to the Pictures folder on Mac and make sure to select the library with the directory going to your Mac and not your external.

    Voila! You just freed up some space on your Mac’s hard drive.

  • Ahhhhh, Vacation!

    Next week is a big travel week for most Vermonters since it’s February break for the school kiddies. If you are one of those people headed someplace warm, sunny and tropical, I am very jealous. If you are able to, escaping the Vermont winters here is essential to your well-being. (Ok, maybe not for all, but for me — someone who loves the sun and warm weather — it’s crucial to get out of here and soak up some serious Vitamin D.) Because I got stuck in Florida during Hurricane Sandy seven days longer than scheduled, I was unable to take my beloved escape to warmer climates this winter. Oh well — I plan to crank the heat in my house and look through photos from trips past.

    I have a treat for the rest of you jet-setters. There are some really great travel apps out there. Here are a few that might be worth downloading from the app store before leaving.

    Check it out:

    *Getting there — jetBlue* This will obviously only be beneficial to those of you actually flying jetBlue. I downloaded this app last year for my trip to Puerto Rico and being someone who judges things first by how they look, was instantly blown away. In this case however, it looks pretty (I’ve always thought jetBlue has done a great job with their identity) and works great! After downloading the app, sign in if you are already a TrueBlue member and it will automatically pull your upcoming flights and information. You can check into your flight, check flight status and view the in-flight guide. You’re able to use the app to book flights, make postcards to send to friends and download some cool jetBlue-themed wallpaper.

    *During — Everplaces* This app might be better suited for the world traveler versus the quick vacationer, but I would still recommend it. If you are one of those people who cares about an authentic and urban experience when you travel, this is the app has your name all over it. Create beautiful collections of photos and tips from your favorite places and get recommendations from other locals or friends who already been to your destination. This app has been described as “the Pinterest of the real world.” The best part about it is that it works offline, so you won’t have any roaming fees!

    *After — Trevi* Once you’ve returned from your super fun trip, get all those photos organized — all you’ll need is a few minutes — seriously. Ahhhh, technology! The days are over when you could spend all weekend organizing the prints from your last trip into photo boxes. Trevi will take your entire photo library from your phone and organize them into city albums, keep track of your travel timeline and gives you a world map marking where you’ve been. You can also send cool postcards to all your friends to make them jealous.

    For all you folks who are lucky enough to escape the cold and travel someplace warm — or even if you are going from cold to cold — getting outta town for a bit really helps break up the time. Safe travels!

  • Mac TREAT #199: Open Files In A Different App

    Have you ever wanted to open a file in a different application than usual? As a web designer, I often find myself opening HTML files in Safari (which is usually what I want), but every once in a while I want to open that same file in my text editor.

    It is a relatively easy process to open a file in a different app. Simply use the secondary click command that you have set up — I right click my Magic Mouse (if you don’t know how to use secondary click I will explain that later). Doing so will open a menu of which the second option from the top is *Open With*. When you hover your mouse pointer over that menu option, another menu will pop out with a list of apps that can launch that file. Select the app you want to open the file with, and presto-change-o — you’re all set for this one time. If you don’t see the app you want, you can always click on *Other…* to browse your entire *Applications* folder for the desired app. You can also go straight to the *App Store* if you know you don’t have the program you want installed.

    So what happens if you want that type of file to always open in that app? Well, you can set a specific file type to always open in a certain application. There are two ways that I know of to do this. The first is to select the file by clicking it once and getting its info with the shortcut *command+I*. A new window will open up and in the 4th drop down from the top labeled *Open with:* you can set the app this specific file uses to open. Once you have selected the app you want, hit the *Change All…* button and every file that has the same extension on your machine currently and in the future will open with that app.

    Now, back to secondary clicking. If you don’t know what your secondary click is, go to *System Preferences > Mouse > Point & Click* and make sure the *Secondary Click* box is checked and underneath is set to the way you want to click. It is the same process if you use a trackpad, except that you go to the trackpad section instead of the mouse section in System Preferences.

    I hope this week’s Mac Treat was of benefit to you. It certainly is something that I have to do multiple times a day. As always, if you have any questions about this Mac Treat, email me at “*michaelb@smalldog.com.*”:mailto:michaelb@smalldog.com

  • _Dear Friends,_

    We got some fresh snow for President’s week here in ski country, which makes our ski areas happy and the roads crowded with slow-moving traffic. There are a lot of things I can do without in winter, but the one that really gets me is how driving on my dirt road makes snow, mud and ice accumulate on my wheels and throw it out of balance. The shaking on the highway usually gets me to go to the car wash, which sometimes works, and sometimes just makes it worse. I always thought the north country should have some special type of wheel washing system that dips each wheel into cleansing warm water.

    We are under construction for our new store in Rutland, Vermont, which will be open this spring. It is a smaller store and while it is in Vermont’s second-largest city, some Apple Specialists asked me when I was in California why we would open a store in a city of 20,000. Well, distances can be confusing in a rural state like Vermont and we expect to serve a much larger area. There are a couple of other considerations as well — we have a partnership with Green Mountain Power and we want to prove to ourselves that a small store model will work so that we can replicate that in other communities, too. What makes the GMP partnership great is that they are currently building an Energy Innovation Center and are working to mark Rutland as the “Solar City” of New England.

    We just got in some of the new 128GB iPads, so if you are looking for the ultimate iPad, come on over to any one of our stores. In fact, we have just about all of the iPad and iPad mini models in stock, including some refurbished and discontinued models, too.

  • How to Use Documents in iCloud

    iCloud seems to be all the rage these days for Apple users, and deservingly so. iCloud will store your content as well as…

  • FileVault or Vile Fault?

    Starting in OS X 10.7 Lion Apple introduced a new version of FileVault, referred to as FileVault 2. FileVault 2 is Apple’s answer…

  • Automate Your Mac

    The other day, my boss said to me, “You know what a great article topic would be? Automator, because it seems like powerful…

  • TT SPECIAL | Movies On Your TV, From Your Mac

    The new Retina display Macs are now coming with an HDMI port, but it wasn’t always that way.

    In the not to distant past Mac owners had to use their mini DisplayPort to send video/audio out to their HDTV. To do that you need a cable.

    Bundled together we have an Apple refurbished 15-inch MacBook Pro with a Hammerhead Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cable.

    Right now you can save $80 on this bundle and be watching movies on your TV from your laptop in no time!

  • TT SPECIAL | Running out of USB Ports?

    Apple certainly has a keen eye for design when it comes to their products. They make things small and compact which makes their portability unmatched.

    Unfortunately at the same time, you can run out of ports in the blink of an eye. The Quirky Contort gives you the extra expandability that you need.

    For this week only, we are offering $10 off on our Quirky Contort in Charcoal plus you get FREE shipping on your order!

  • TT SPECIAL | Cable Management is Key

    Long cables are a catch 22. It’s nice to have the extra length when you need it but what do you do with all that excess when you don’t? Quirky Cordlets are a perfect solution to keeping all of your pesky cables in line.

    For anyone interested in cable management around the office or at home, we highly recommend giving these Cordlets are try.

    Act now and save $5 on your preferred color (charcoal or white) of Quirky Cordlet and receive FREE shipping on your order.

  • Why Did My Hard Drive Die?

    The old adage says there are only two certainties in life: death and taxes. I’d like to add a third: hard drives die. It might be today, tomorrow, next week, next year. It might be five years from now. At some point, it will die. The eternal question is, why? Hard disks are prone to two types of failures: physical and logical.

    A standard hard drive is made up of three components: the platter, the head and the controller. The platter is a metallic disk coated with a magnetic surface where data is stored; each platter has two sides and most drives have more than one platter. The heads are similar to the needle on a record player — they float over the platters and read or write data as needed. The controller is just that — it controls the read/write heads and translates commands from the operating system to the drive itself. When you click the Finder icon, it sends a command to the controller saying “give me a list of folders.” It sends the necessary commands to the heads to gather this information, then sends it back to Finder.

    If you’ve ever wondered what specs like “5400 RPM” or “7200 RPM” mean, it refers to how fast the platters are spinning — 5400, 7200 or even 10,000 rotations per minute. The faster the platters spin, the faster you can access your data. The platters are spun by a motor, and anything that spins that fast for a long enough period of time will eventually wear out. If the motor dies, the platters cannot spin, and you can’t get to your data. A sign that the motor might be failing is a loud buzzing or grinding noise from the hard drive as it spins.

    Under normal operation, the read/write heads do not ever touch the platter. There is a gap of about 3 nanometers between the head and the surface of the platter. If you don’t know how small a nanometer is, picture a frisbee flying at a speed of 150mph about 3 inches from the ground. That’s how close to the platter the read/write head is, which doesn’t leave a lot of room for error.

    Just as an errant gust of wind could cause the frisbee to hit the ground, any kind of shock to the hard drive can cause the heads to crash into the platter, scratching the surface and possibly causing the magnetic coating to be ruined. This can be anywhere from hardly noticeable to catastrophic, depending on where the heads happen to hit. Damaged areas can no longer reliably store data, but if there was already data there, it may now be inaccessible. Attempts to read damaged areas can cause the system to slow down, hang (beach ball) or freeze up altogether.

    Condensation can also ruin a hard drive. Common belief is that a hard drive is completely sealed and air-tight, but this is not strictly accurate. There is a tiny air hole on the drive’s case (usually marked with a label that says “Do not cover”). Its purpose is to stabilize the pressure and humidity inside and outside the drive. If you leave a laptop in a cold car and then bring it into a warm room, you should let it sit at room temperature for several hours before trying to use it. Seagate drive packaging suggests that if the drive was shipped at a temperature of 30 degrees, the drive should sit for 15 hours before attempting to power it up. I have seen at least one system that was left in the car overnight and then would not boot from the drive the next day. The hard drive was unrecoverable; I can’t help but wonder, had the user waited until the system warmed up, if it would have been okay.

    Modern hard drives will automatically move the heads off to the side, away from the platter’s data area, when you power down your system. You should always either shut down your laptop or put it to sleep before moving it to reduce the risk of a head crash. Carrying it around while it’s running is just asking for trouble, even with modern hard drives’ sudden motion sensor, which parks the heads when motion is sensed.

    If you set your system down too hard (or drop it) while it’s not running, the hard drive will often be fine. If the system is running when it hits, the read/write heads can bounce off the platter and corrupt the data stored there, even with a sudden motion sensor. The platters have a lubricating coating that help protect against the casual bump here and there, but this won’t prevent the shock of a drop from damaging the drive.

    The controller, like any electronics, can fail with or without any warning. Twenty years ago, hard drives and controllers were separate parts, so if the controller failed you could just swap it for another one and the data on the hard drive would be fine. Now the two are integrated, so if one fails the whole thing fails. Without the drive controller, the system can’t send commands to retrieve data. If you’ve ever turned on your computer and heard a clicking noise from your hard drive, this usually means the controller has failed and can’t send the correct commands to the read/write heads. As a result, they just knock back and forth. What would make the controller fail? Power spikes. An accidental drop. Liquid. Bad luck.

    I haven’t mentioned the “b” word yet…anyone who’s read my articles knows I strongly recommend backing up your system regularly. Some day, your hard drive will develop problems. When it happens, one of the more difficult parts of my job is telling people that their data is gone. All the pictures of their baby growing up, all their college papers, all their music, gone forever. Your hard drive might die, but your data doesn’t have to go with it.

    Back up your data. A technician’s least favorite job function is to report that all data is lost.

    ??Originally written by Glen B. back in 2011. You can view the original newsletter “here.”:http://blog.smalldog.com/techtails/tt780??

  • How to Disable Dashboard

    Dashboard is a feature built in to Mac OS X 10.4 and up that allows you to customize a variety of widgets within a readily accessible screen overlay. This may seem like a handy tool to have on your desktop, but the truth is, these widgets can be quite the little ram hogs, slowing down your regular processes.

    In order to fix this and increase the performance on your machine, it is possible to completely disable Dashboard from your system. It does require some basic Terminal work, and can just as easily be reversed, so don’t be worried about making any permanent changes. Note also that you don’t necessarily need to disable Dashboard completely; simply closing widgets you never use will help quite a bit too.

    Now, if you’ve decided that you don’t need Dashboard, and would rather have the heightened performance, the first step is to open Terminal (located in Macintosh HD > Applications > Utilities). Once open, type this command:

    @defaults write com.apple.dashboard mcx-disabled -boolean YES@

    and hit return. Now you can restart the Dock by typing the following command:

    @killall Dock@

    This command will allow the changes to take effect. Dashboard is a process owned by the Dock, so it is necessary to restart the “parent” process to see the desired change.

    So there you have it — Dashboard has been completely disabled on your system. Later on, if you begin to miss this feature, it can easily be restored in a very similar fashion. Open up Terminal, and type this command:

    @defaults write com.apple.dashboard mcx-disabled -boolean NO@

    Now, run the @killall Dock@ command once again to restart the Dock, and there you go — Dashboard has been restored.

    ??Originally written by “*RJ*”:mailto:rj@smalldog.com back in 2011. You can view the original newsletter “here.”:http://blog.smalldog.com/techtails/tt752??